Thursday, September 22, 2016

New York Fashion Week S/S 17


New York Fashion Week is back along with its ritual of classic designers along with new kids on the block and definitely ones to watch out for. One that never fails to bring the grace and glamour to New York Fashion Week is Marchesa. Known for their Hollywood gowns, this collection was based on the colours of the rising and setting sun. Colour palettes ranged from soft and delicate including pastel purples and transparent blues, to bold and dramatic with jet black and dominant navy. Heavy embroidery was a key focus for this collection as well as using the fabrics to create ruffles and creases that made the garments instantly more flowing and graceful. Not many designers can pull off a collection of both delicate designs and darker dramatic gowns, but it's safe to say Marchesa have managed to give the best of both worlds. 


You see that over the shoulder top you've got on repeat in your wardrobe about 5 times? Milly's last collection probably is the reason those summer favourite tops in your wardrobe exist. The craze of off the shoulder necklines all summer has even morphed its way into the autumn months to come by layering them under long sleeve tops or even T shirts. Yet, it looks like this trend is going to last into the next summer as Milly included off the shoulder pieces yet again in her S/S collection. Although this time they come with a new twist (an actual twist of the fabric to be precise) with layering of black and blue materials together that ties all the way down the arms, this collection really is the epitome of style. Simplistic colours let the shapes do the talking and this collection really does let that happen as ties, lapels and straps interlinking one another appeared one after the other on the runway. Milly is one of my favourite designers how she mixes simplicity with new shapes never experimented with before. Keep an eye out next summer for those off the shoulder tops again but with the new and improved twist make over, I'm sure she'll come up with version number 3.


Ruffles, ruffles and more ruffles. It's pretty much all over the magazines that ruffles in fashion are the next BIG thing. Literally MASSIVE, since many of the ruffles are becoming an uncontrollable but tidy mess all over our tops and skirts. At first we braved it with an asymmetric hem, but things have taken a turn to the wilder side by building up those hems with even more movement that is the ruffle. Zimmerman quite obviously used ruffles as a main theme throughout the collection as almost every, if not every, garment had elements of ruffles whether it was on the skirt, cuffs or neckline. Some could say ruffle overload, but what happened to the good ol' phrase the more the merrier? A bell sleeved top and a beautiful ruffled skirt and you'd look perfect.


As more and more designers are becoming more and more experimental with their designs it's obvious that Delpozo clearly favours this way of work. First looks at their collection and you instantly see HUGE shapes that could practically knock you out. With materials used such as scuba the designs look almost futuristic with the wacky shaping which I've got to say I wouldn't mind wearing myself. I mean there's peplum skirts yes, but Delpozo take it to a whole other level. Everything seems to have taken to the bigger side in fashion now. Don't get me wrong garments are still tailored but it's a lot bigger in size, more roomy and of course comfier to wear. Is bigger the better in this case though? Surely that's a personal preference but that's for you to decide.


A collection inspired by bees and their buzzing beehive homes, Rodarte focused very much on the tiny details for S/S 17. At first glance the garments look like a beautiful layering of fabrics, all gently morphing into one another with lace details and dramatic shaping. Take a closer look and you'll find the embroidery is very heavy, the 3D appliqué is packed with punch and even the netting used is in a honey comb shape. With a collection this focused on the tiny details the colour choices stayed simple with monochrome to let the colours come to life through different textures and techniques. Black lace has always been a sexy look in my book and this look for Rodarte really ups their game, especially with the choker necklines and cut out sections of flesh. We're all pretty buzzed up on this collection.

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