Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Paris Fashion Week S/S 16

 Balmain

Olivier Rousteing, creative director, has boosted Balmain's recognition ever since day one. With a style so distinct in each collection he's succeeded to make Balmain one of the clearest fashion brands to remember. Balmain's stereotypical grid like shaping, use of metallic and silks and deep royal colour pallets are some of the most well known distinctions of his garments. Any designer with this much detail in their collection would surely capture any high fashion lovers dream, but what about the more average spender? Recently it's been advertised that Balmain has collaborated with H&M this year for their yearly high street and designer collab, so luckily for us Balmain will be available on our high streets this November for a much lower price. If the collab is as successful as Karl Lagerfeld with H&M in 2014, then all I'm saying is either queue up outside the shop or keep chopsticks under your eyes to keep awake until it's released online. Back to Fashion Week however, and Balmain's traditional style of rich colour palettes continued. Rich emeralds partnered with mustards became the highlight of the catwalk, and with grid like structures around the skirt encrusted with jewels there's a reason the collections make you feel like royalty.

 Dries Van Noten

Always one to make an impact, and definitely always one to stand out. Dries Van Noten took this collection to a silky and shiny new level. Garments instantly looked 1 million dollars by using silky smooth fabric with elaborate designs that gave every outfit some kind of character and personality. Some shall we say became a little eccentric, yet most outfits showcased the glamour of the silky patterns without clashing or having some kind of silk overload. Silk stereotypically has a soft and draping connotation, when in fact you can manipulate silk to suit whatever kind of needs. Anybody who's used silk will tell you it's one of the hardest and most annoying fabrics to sew, so reshaping and wanting silk for your garments can otherwise be a tricky surgical operation. Dries Van Noten challenged the silk to perform tailored habits and so incorporated it in blazers, shirts and pants.

 Martin Grant

With an almighty use of navy in Grant's collection you could immediately tell this collection was going to be simple and tailored. Personally I've not seen Grant's collections previously, but after seeing his S/S 16 collection it's one of my favourite to date. The proof is in the pudding (or garment) that using simple clashing colour to emphasise a line can make one of the most simple of attires become of the most elegant. This kind of simplicity in garment making reminds you of one of the first woman who accomplished with, Chanel, with her use of black and white lines to highlight the edges of the garments. All these decades later it's become textbook worthy with several designers following the technique to create beautiful and powerful garments. One of the accessories repeated in the collection was the drawstring tie waist belt. S/S 16 has been the Fashion Week of belts, within every fashion city this wasp waist technique has been used again and again. I'm telling you now, stack up on your belts pronto. 

 Maison Rabih Kayrouz

Ahh the baggy T shirt and joggers, we all love it yet find it physically impossible to be brave enough to wear this kind of outfit outside the house. Like some kind of beast let out of its cage we're desperate to keep it behind bars. Now that fashion is becoming more comfortable with trainers and pumps showing no signs of kicking back to the back of the wardrobe any time soon, maybe it's becoming more fashionably acceptable to actually go out in clothes baggy enough to lounge about in. Before you even ask, no the joggers are still a relationship you have to leave at home, sorry. As for oversized T-shirts, blouses and tunics bring them out to experience the world outside your bedroom because bagginess is the new trendiness. Kayrouz is a designer I hadn't seen before, yet her collection immediately appealed to me thorough her use of comfortable cotton fabrics and oversized shapes. With a monochrome colour pallet to match, this collection was pretty much made for me. 

Alexander McQueen

London's VMA museum has only recently just finished a whole exhibition devoted to Mr McQueen himself which showcased beautiful hand crafted work from his collections over his years of success, before and after his suicide. The VMA state it's been the most successful exhibition in its history with extra dates being added due to high demand and tickets selling out almost instantly. With this sudden leap into the limelight once again, McQueen is certainly the design house everyone is most excited  for what on earth they've decided to bring next. We've had it all from collections inspired by butterflies to collections inspired by the future. McQueen never disappoints and manages to shock the audience in whatever way he chose-be it through beauty or going just a little bit crazy. S/S 16 opted for a more beauty element then scaring their wanted buyers. The garments stayed off white and cream and added immaculate detailing through embroidery and reshaping the fabrics to create alluring and textured shapes. Neck lines tended to look little medieval and tumour like bringing a very authoritative style whilst the feminine choice of white juxtaposed the whole look. 

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