Wednesday, October 7, 2015

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2016

 Blumarine

Floaty and feminine are words that instantly spring to mind for Blumarine's S/S collection. With silhouette becoming more casual and comfy the fabrics chosen were lighter, looser and more transparent. Many of the designs stayed simple with only a slight texture or detail of florals or stripes. Personally the all in one white outfits are my favourite which have been featured this season as a fashion must, so keep all your whites clear of any fake tan lines, you'll be needing them for the summer as well as the winter so look after them. For some, this may confuse and puzzle you why on earth you'd want to wear white in the winter as well as the summer? Well for one, it's very feminine wearing a light colour so you can still wear androgynous shapes and male tailoring without looking too Maggie Thatcher.

 Gucci

Granny chic is a trend that seems to be everywhere at the moment. For winter it's all about the pussy-bow blouse and the full knit skirt, which most certainly would make granny proud if you turned up on a Sunday dinner like a reflection of your Granny's wardrobe. Lets face it, it's obvious any grandmother would prefer their grand daughter in a fully buttoned top right up to the neckline rather than a risky crop top. Meanwhile on Gucci's catwalk, the granny shapes and clothing habits kept on coming, but certainly didn't keep to their favoured dull colour pallet. Gucci clashed almost every outfit, yet even though it was such a mis-match of pattern they kind of ended up matching together in a strange post modernist way. A Japanese patterned skirt with a pastel pink girly blouse? What's not to like.

 Jil Sander

With all designers focusing on clothing at fashion week we forget one of the most important things about summer- the summer hat and accessories. Of course it seems to have taken a step backwards over the last few years but for people like myself the summer hat is a god send if you don't fancy applying sun cream on top of your head like some kind of daytime shampoo, unless you want that greasy sticky hair kind of approach.  Jill Sander sent every model out onto the catwalk with a summer hat. With none fuss and a simple shape the hat did and said as it was told, to protect our fragile scalps from that blistering sun (if you're not in England), and looked fantastic to wear (as a typical summer hat should be). Sander's finished off every outfit to a T and managed to make the collection that little more memorable by gifting every model with a hat. As for the clothing it was straight, simple and tailored. The only thing that added a little more risk to the collection was the mustard PVC coat. Everything else was mostly smart and easy, which to be honest, is the way we like it best. Correct?

 Luisa Beccaria

Florals upon florals upon florals. Of course, what did we expect for S/S collections, but Luisa made floral patterns an ongoing theme throughout her whole collection, whether it be for the evening gowns or the party dresses everything included a delicate flower. Decades that instantly spring to mind (pardon the pun) for her inspiration are the 30s and 40s. Those puffed out sleeves, those huge brimmed hats and that long sleeved leotard number are screaming with 30s inspiration. Luisa incorporated packs of detail in some of her garments which remind you of a more Edwardian characteristic with the overpowerment of lace and high necklines. The colour pallet kept girly without becoming too candy floss and ice cream as she partnered purples and greens for most of her collections reminding me of a more Secret Garden inspiration.

Emilio Pucci

Anyone who recalls completing a textiles degree, A level or even GCSE would remember the ongoing battle of sewing together battered pieces of materials to produce a strange yet abstract and interesting sample someone could engage with, and quite often send up stroking. Well, for some reason (I don't know if I'm the only one) Emilio Pucci's collection reminds me of just that. Some of his garments became obvious he'd taken inspiration from the fishing harbours as some clothing included a full on fish motif, whilst others tangled with the ropes twisted around the bodice for such a complex look it looks sketchbook sample ready. As for his more safe and realistic attires he chose to clash stripes with rich tones of blue and red for a royal and elegant connotation yet still gave a waterfall look to the fabric for that laid back style.

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